We're just back from a week up north: Yosemite National Park, San Francisco, and Livermore for my nephew's wedding. The wedding was perfect, and it was a delight to see my nephew so happy. San Francisco is still not my favorite city, but I enjoyed the food. (I can recommend Cala, Rintaro, and Cotogna restaurants.)
As for Yosemite, I know I went there as a child, because I remember the T-shirts that said "Go climb a rock," which I thought were brilliant. (Still do, and I wish the gift shops sold them.) But I didn't recall much else about it. So entering the valley was a gorgeous shock.
The valley is astounding, with sheer cliffs everywhere you look. It's also a bit park-like, rather than nature-like: There are a ton of people, and many paths are paved. It wasn't unpleasant, but it wasn't what I think of as hiking. That's not to say the scenery was anything other than spectacular. On our first of two days, we hiked up to the top of Vernal Falls....
And then we hiked to get the view of the valley I posted above, followed by a short walk to see Bridal Veil Falls. When the wind picks up, the water gets blown to the right.
We stayed at the famous Ahwahnee Lodge. I can't say I was disappointed, because expectations were low: From my experience at the Furnace Creek Inn (which now has a new name) at Death Valley, I knew that Aramark, the concessionaire that runs the National Parks property, is simply not up to the task. The building is stunning, the location impeccable; everything else is Motel 6, but at much higher prices. I'm not proud to admit I've become the kind of person who answers the surveys that hotels send after the stay, and this one got an earful. The food and beverage manager even called to follow up, but what else was there to say? The food is awful and extremely overpriced, and the service is generally awkward at best. Plus, the bar area stank so bad I had to hold my breath every time I got three steps in.
Our room was one of the 1920s cottages behind the lodge. The exterior was cute, but for two days I had to hear about the pea under the mattress poor quality of the sheets.
On our second day, on the advice of an engaging young woman working in the bar (where the cheaper breakfast is available), we went outside the valley for a hike to and above May Lake. There were a handful of other hikers, which was actually helpful, because the trail wasn't particularly marked. The views were insane, although the high altitude made for slow going.
Two last thoughts: 1) I need to rethink that shirt. And 2) The website Yosemite Hikes is really, really good—so good that I sent a fan letter. (Unrequited, alas.) If you're going to the park, you should absolutely use it.